Wednesday, October 12, 2011

14" Sand Filter with 1/5 Hp Pump

!9# 14" Sand Filter with 1/5 Hp Pump

Brand : Fibropool | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Oct 13, 2011 03:33:38 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


ANOTHER INGENIOUS PRODUCT FROM FIBROPOOL. Brand new set. In original box. This filtration system comes complete with base, pump, filter, connection hose, unions and pressure gauge. Now you can throw away that painful cartridge filter away and run smooth with a sand filter. There is a 1/5 hp pump that runs on around 12 cents per day electricity(8 hours). The revolutionary split phase capacitor runs the motor cool and saves electricty.20gpm at 150 watts. This is a high volme pump that moves about 20 gallons per minute. In 8 hour turnover, it can handle a pool about 20' diameter and 4' tall.(9,200 gallon pool) 1 1/2" pvc connections are unionized. in front of the pump, in the multiport valve and backwash side.You can pipe it with hard pvc or hoses. 14" sand filter made of high grade thermoplastics, just like Hayward, Pentair, etc. Multiport valve has the following positions: 1. Filter 2. Backwash 3. Rinse 4. Closed Filter system holds 45 lbs of silica sand.(sand not included. youcan buy it at local pool stores for around 10 dollars for 50 lbs bag. you can also use zeolite based filter media) Warranty paperwork is included

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Monday, October 10, 2011

Aube by Honeywell TI040/U 7-Day Programmable Timer

!9#Aube by Honeywell TI040/U 7-Day Programmable Timer

Brand : Aube by Honeywell
Rate :
Price : $61.47
Post Date : Oct 10, 2011 07:41:25
Usually ships in 1-2 business days



The Aube TI040 7-Day Programmable Timer features a selectable-voltage switch to enable the user to choose between 120 Volt or 240 Volt. The heavy-duty weatherproof casing (Nema 3R) makes it ideal for outdoor use. The lockable casing allows for increased s

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Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Submersible Well How to replace

!9# Submersible Well How to replace

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Replacing a submersible pump and is not a difficult task and is relatively easy if you know the basics of a good system - such as positioning of the pump, submersible pump and how it operates, how it fitted in well casing. They do it with an advanced knowledge of some basic electrical wiring and plumbing do it yourself is likely to be able to replace a submersible pump, irrigation pump. This is not a step-by-step installation instructions, but rather an overview of a generalTo assess understanding, if you do it yourself or hire a contractor. 60% of the total price of the contractor, the job - the savings in labor costs, although it will be over 50. The first factor in deciding whether to attempt to do it yourself how deep the well is set and you have sufficient space to place the hose in your garden, if you prefer from the event. If your a good 50 'to 150' deep, I'd recommend doing it yourself if youphysically able to lift and continuously over 40 to 70 pounds of weight and keep it for the complete removal of the pump during a fall to take back into the well. You will need at least one other person who can help pull the pump and the leader of the line pressure from the elevator and you.

The steel pipe, iron or PVC pipe is usually 3 "or 4" in diameter and this looks like a sleeve, in which the pump, pressure hoseand wiring to go to reach the water level in the casing pipe. For the submersible pump, line pressure, typically 1 "to 1 - ¼" flexible polyethylene pipe and power lines running in this case the depth of the submersible pump in the well. The deeper the well, which is increasingly difficult to distinguish. The weight of the pump can help relieve some maneuvers and hold over the hose to connect the pump to prevent it from sliding andFall back into the pipes, as you prefer. Once you start pulling the pump, the movement continues until it completely from the body. If you do this manually on a rope can easily switch to the top of the cap well so that the other person to keep it or tie it to something - a tree or a fence, between lifts if you take a break and have to stop lifting.

If you decide to replace the pump in the well itself, here are some tips to remember.Determine that the pump motor is bad, from switches, circuit breakers and make sure that the power at the wellhead. When current head, and is a good sign that the pump is broken. Turn off power to the breaker panel, tags and locks for safety before releasing the good head start. Clear the area around the fountain head, about 6 'to 8' in diameter, shrubs and plants in order to have enough space, you must pause the output of the pump and electrical connections. Disconnect the pressure line andDisconnect the wiring to the junction box near the top of the fountain. Loosen the screws on the top of the lid, which is a kind of squeezing cover with a thick rubber ring that expands as tight and loose contracts with respect to the interior housing. Once loose, try to lift the lid, as it always has an idea of ​​how difficult it is all from which to lift it from the sources must lift.

Now you are ready for lifting the pump. Rubber gloves, protective clothing or overalls shouldturning point, since the pipes of the pump, and silt deposits of iron on the outside and can be quite a messy job. Tie string around the top edge of the hole for the other person to hold or tie, if necessary. Some wells have a rope or cable lead is already installed from the original, rather than mounted on the discharge hose and connection. The person who should do the actual drawing directly on the state well to the pressure line directly from the body and liftThe other person must remain with the top of the cap well and drive it where it likes to pull left. Make sure the person driving the end is a good handle on the end before you get to manage another release. Continue to pump assembly is completely out of the washing tank and the pump end, so you can review the day of the specific pump.

Collect information from the old pump - make, model, HP, voltage, phase, 110/220, rpm, 2 or 3 wire configuration, continuous operation andthe outlet pressure of the pump and the size of the diameter of the tube. Most residential submersible pumps are both 2-wire or 3-wire configuration. The 2-wire design has 2 - 110v wires to the pump body with a fall down. The pump does not require 2-wire controls. If there is a 3-wire pump, you should also replace the controls.

Most of the submersible pump are bolted together two pieces device consists of an assembly and the motor and pump. You can only choose to replace the motor or pump, if it is, but I'd reallysuggest to replace the whole assembly. After determining the type and size of pump you have, you may decide to maintain the system with a higher volume pump to maintain the same configuration update. To upgrade, you must use a vendor or for recommendations on the compatibility with your needs and size of pipes, pumps encourage contacts.

The installation of new pump assembly. Make a detailed list of new parts, controls, connectors and cables needed. If the existingFlex hoses and cables are in good condition, no need to replace them. To install the new pump, you must connect the wires together in a watertight connection. Consult an electrician or contractor to set the power cable connector junction good technique and applications. Close door fittings and clamps as the manufacturer's instructions. Connect the power cord every 2 "for the duration of the hose to facilitateReinstall the pump in the crankcase. Turn off the power to check the pump for a short time, if it works before you put the assembly in the well. Turn the power switch, and prepare the pump into the well again with two people - the lower opening well and cover the power of the pump down and the other person to feed the game well in the lead again to To keep you and to help prevent the pump is dropping rapidly and the chassis.


Submersible Well How to replace

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Saturday, August 27, 2011

What Size Should I pool pump or spa?

!9# What Size Should I pool pump or spa?

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First you need to find the tag engine. Many engine manufacturers of pumps, for example, A, O, Smith GE, Century, Franklin, etc. Put a tag on the engine specification. In recent years we have seen HP's assessment places to contain these tags. Instead, we find a great tag Separate tags by specific HP engine and a number after it.

In most cases this is a trick to sell, and not the real (HP) hp rating of the engine. And 'what is called the power break. Whatdoes this mean? This means that when you first start the engine, if it could run continuously on this power, would be to evaluate the performance of the day. However, no motor running continuously at this speed.

How can we find the evaluation actual engine power we have at our spa or pool pump?

First, it should be noted that the PS ratings, the amount of work that the engine needs to be done on an ongoing basis. If 24 hours a day running of a pool or 2 hourstime in a spa. Actual performance is all the engine can do without overload.

- First Look on the specific tag on the motor, usually a great day with lots of information.
- Check the motor voltage. Usually 110 volts or 220 volts.
- To find the value of the rated motor current. This can be any number and is the key in the search for horses.
- You have the right voltage and amperage in hand. Multiply amps times volts. For example, 220 volts 8.5 timesA = 1870
- Now divide 1870 (or any other number that came with) of 1024 (ESA SP-1). In our case above, we obtain 1.826 as the engine power is only a 1.5 hp motor.
- Now, for the current PS (or workload) of the pump motor can not be found, multiply the 1.826 by.75.

It is believed that the engine is running under load and not only for their lives freely.

In our case above, the power rating 1.826equal to 1.3 multiplied by.75. Well, this is strange, because you never had a 1.3 hp pump motor correctly for a spa or pool? So what's the problem?

There are still a number that is necessary is to achieve a proper evaluation of engine power. And 'the number-SF (service factor number) the tag spec. Once the rating engine power (in our example about 1.3 hp), you must then multiply the number of times SF-mapped number. SF numbers are usually 1.0 to 1.65. L '(SF ServiceFactor) number of producers can tell you exactly how much work to do that engine.

So in our case, we had the engine 4TE tag and was found to be actually 1.3HP once multiplied 1.65 SF (service factor), we obtain 2.145 HP for the amount of work that the engine is doing under load . So we can safely install a 1.5 HP fan for what is a full-rate or a 2.0 hp motor bike for a so called to the rated motor current.

A Motor 1.5HP (Full Rate - 1.65SF) can be used as a motor 2.0HP and 2.0HP is the same as a (maximum rate - 1.0 SF)

I hope this has cleared some of these for you. Spa-like producers and producer of pumps that you think you are more and more HP (HP), with its spa, or spa pump or pump with its competitor. When in fact they are all exactly the same.


What Size Should I pool pump or spa?

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Sunday, August 7, 2011

Hayward SUPER II Pool Pump 1.5hp Max Rated SP3010X15AZ

!9# Hayward SUPER II Pool Pump 1.5hp Max Rated SP3010X15AZ

Brand : Inground Pool Pump | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Aug 07, 2011 22:03:32 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


Hayward SUPER II Pool Pump 1.5hp Max Rated# SP3010X15AZA FEW FEATURES: Heavy-duty, high performance motor for quieter, cooler operation Super-size 180 cubic inch basket has extra leaf-holding capacity. Load extender ribbing ensurers free flowing operation Exclusive swing-aside hand knobs make strainer cover removal easy Service-ease design gives simple access to all internal parts See-thru strainer cover lets you see when basket needs cleaning Self-priming (suction lift up to 8' above water level) All components molded of corrosion-proof PermaGlass XL for extra durability and long life This is a high performance, specifically designed pump for the use on in-ground pools, in-ground spas, or fountainsWe are an authorized Hayward dealer, factory sealed merchandise

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